The three words describe three different relationships between stone, gold and light. Knowing which is which will change what you fall in love with.
Kundan — gold as the setting
Kundan is the oldest technique still in daily use in our atelier. The stone is held not by claws but by thin ribbons of refined gold pressed around it, over a foil backing that gives the stone its glow. It is slow, unforgiving work: a single choker can take a week of setting.
Polki — the uncut diamond
Polki refers to the stone itself: an uncut or barely-cut diamond kept in its natural, flat form. Mounted in kundan settings, polki carries a soft, unpolished sparkle that cut diamonds cannot imitate. It is the stone of heirloom bridal work across the subcontinent.
Jadau — the whole commission
Jadau is the umbrella term: gold set with stones and, traditionally, an enameled reverse. A jadau piece is a kundan piece, often with polki, built as one complete work. When a jeweller says a set is jadau, they mean the entire construction — front, back and stone — was made by hand.
Kundan is how it is held. Polki is what is held. Jadau is the whole piece, front to back.
Ustad Rafiq, setter
- Ask for kundan when you love a warm, antique glow and hand-set detail.
- Ask for polki when you want the heritage look of an uncut diamond.
- Ask for jadau when you are commissioning a complete bridal set with an enameled reverse.
